By Katie Isham.
“Where’s the beach?” is the question often posed by visitors to Southampton. To which the answer, woefully, is that there isn’t one.
But, that isn’t strictly true.
The dictionary definition of a beach, is a strip of land covered with sand or stones at the edge of a body of water. And by jingo, we’ve got some of those on the outer reaches of our fair city.
Admittedly, they’re not large, nor particularly picturesque and filled with small children constructing sandcastles, but they’re beaches by definition, and Marchwood has one of the most striking. Beaches generally have a view out to rolling waves or cliffs on the horizon. Our Marchwood beach is instead eyeballed by the mammoth monstrosity of cranes and container ships. Beat that Bognor.
Marchwood village is a sizeable community between the New Forest and the river. Make a path through the lattice of residential streets. The suburbs here are a mix of colonial style new builds and repurposed barracks dating back to World War One. The grandly named roads of Admiralty Way and Maritime Avenue capitalise on the location. A grove of trees lines the Avenue providing a cool parking spot.
Leave the road to join the footpath meandering through the estate towards the sea like a trickling brook. Cross a grassy trench via the white wooden bridges. A large brick wall withholds the close proximity to the water.
Follow the wooden signpost toward the opening in the wall and step into a repurposed courtyard. A further opening in the far wall acts as a frame, positioning the industry of the banks of the River Test as a glorious vista.
Step through the frame and feel the vibrations of the cranes swinging and arching. Watch the changing patterns of the coloured boxes on and off the ships bigger than most villages; it’s a game of Tetris for the ages and this is the best seat in (out) the house. Nowhere else can you get so close to our docks and it’s really quite astounding to behold. But the sound is even more remarkable.
The metallic stretching and yawning of moving chains and clanks across the water and fills the space along the beach. It’s akin to the singing of whales – a most unnatural version of the song of the sea. The lament of the docks is elongated whirrs of cranes punctuated by the odd siren wail: industrial magic to keep this feat of engineering happening in constant motion.
The sea wall stretches in both directions. Choose one and start ambling. To the left leads upriver and along the aforementioned beach. The shingle is shallow and edged by gorse wilderness. There’s enough room to skip over the stones then move up onto the bank and to pick a route through summer blooming narrow tunnels.
Duck under the bramble bushes and emerge on the marsh edge to view the sailing boats moored on the river. A fallen tree blocks the path but the bravest can find a way around and it’s possible to keep walking until Totton if the mood takes you.
Alternatively, head back along the coast, but maybe pick some desire paths through the woodland area for diversity.
Once back on the sea wall route, there’s a long, straight path to conquer. Head south and follow the trail between the river docks and the historic buildings that are now residences.
A wide green lawn sprawls alongside if dogs or children need a run. Alternatively, a low step at low tide will lead down to a concrete matrix that could count as a beach. Small plants dare to grow through the cracks in opposition to the fierce throes of commerce across the river.
Keep walking downstream until Marchwood Yacht Club halts the path. Pass through the gates then cut inland by the mouth of a river tributary. Follow the track along this canal until a turning leads you right. There are two options: for the more adventurous, a small wall and a brick step drops you back into the suburbs quicker. Or after a few more minutes, the more playful can turn right into the playground. Both then return to the residential streets to complete the loop.
Marchwood may not adhere to the stereotypical beach aesthetic, but who likes to follow the crowd? The beach might be small but the view is enormous. Peer into the inner cogs of the Southampton docks from one of our most overlooked shorelines.
Cost: Free to access the walk and free to park on residential streets.
Accessibility: Mostly paved paths but once you hit the beach zone, it’ll go shingle file onto the stones and then very narrow woodland paths through the vegetation, but that’s an optional extension. Marchwood is located on the south western shore of the River Test, easily accessed by car along the Marchwood by-pass or via the Number 8 Bluestar from Southampton city centre.
Facilities: Very little facility wise along the walk. There are some benches and the playground will provide entertainment for younger folk. But make sure to pack snacks. A little further afield you can find toilets, cafes, pubs and the local farm shop.
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