By Katie Isham.
Sometimes it’s staggering to think of the lives and stories that evolved right where we now live: where we get our petrol, walk our dogs or trudge over Northam Bridge on match days. Time for a wander along and across the river on the ground of old settlements and in the shadow of new neighbourhoods.
Start around Bitterne train station. Parking is available as well. If the community hub is open, it’s certainly worth popping by; even if it’s closed, the fridge book swap is ungovernable in its opening times. Then head up the incline to Bitterne Road West, pausing to admire the neon woodland friends adorning the walls courtesy of local hero Joanna Rose Tidey. At the road, turn right heading west. The dual carriageway thunders past so sneak another right turn as soon as possible into the suburbs.
Follow Chafen Road round a bend and discover the resident turret at the end of the street. Strange to find a Martello Tower imposter amongst the semis. It’s a fantastical sight and worth the slight detour if only to provoke discussion regarding the furniture arrangements.
Continue along the road until a gaggle of greenery announces the site of Clausentum. Here on the bend of the River Itchen is the approximate site of the Roman town where walls, trenches and coins have been discovered from the 2nd Century. It’s now a small park perfect for dog walking, stone skimming and lazy barbeques on summer evenings. Exactly as the Romans would’ve wanted.
At the edge of the site, try to peek round the bend to spy the grand Bitterne Manor House, a foundation of more modern history, before heading inland through the tiny forest. The trees lead through the ornate gates onto the busy road.
Stay heading west past the industrial estates and retail land, notably named Centurion Park after those who marched the ancestral road, before stepping onto Northam Bridge itself. Keep an eye out for lazy oystercatchers on the moored boats and swans nibbling the marine margins.
On the opposite shore, the relatively new housing complex rises out of the ashes of the old Meridian site. Surrounded by grass and playgrounds, it provides a pleasant spot overlooking the river. Swoop down to the grounds and towards the river. The path leads under Northam Bridge to Coalporters Rowing Club. Watch the boats shoot across the waves in time with the metallic clanging of cranes just overhead.
Stretch the walk just into Northam Estate to discover a warehouse full of pastels and pints. Unity Brewing provides a quick pit stop for weekend wanders. With the malty smell in your nostrils head back to the upper realms of the bridge, strolling above the rowing club to start the return leg.
Traverse the tides alongside the noisy traffic. Towards the end of the crossing, respite is available by dipping down into a small garden area between road and river. Catch a glimpse of the waves flowing below and a grove of trees ushering walkers ashore.
Out of the garden, hook a sharp right to take the footpath along the edge of another apartment complex. Catch views back across the Itchen to industrial estates, bobbing yachts and the eroding remnants of past moorings sinking into the silt.
Soon the footpath expires and the road returns to the suburbs. The houses and workshops are befriended by a concrete basketball cage and playground. The road continues to the marina and Kemp’s Quay. Along one alley is Na’s Bar, a hidden jewel of Thai cuisine. There’s even a brand-new Mr Mosaic piece of art to accompany it. Little Miss Greedy might not be quite the mosaic the Romans would have made, but it complements our current era perfectly.
After all that exploring, take a rest and reflect on the changes that have happened along this stretch of river over so many centuries. The dual carriageway may be slightly different to the Roman road that once was, but us Southampton folk still enjoy a good brew (of all types) and delicious food in the heart of our community. The path may be different for us, but all roads lead to Clausentum.
Cost: Free for the walk. Free parking locally. Necessary costs incurred by visiting hostelries en route.
Accessibility: Mostly paved throughout with some options to go across grass. A few options include ramps or steps but alternatives are available. Bitterne Manor is across the bridge from the city centre reached by road on Bitterne Road West, served by numerous bus routes and Bitterne train station is an excellent starting point.
Facilities: Various food and drink stops available if you empathise with Little Miss Greedy surveying the scene at Kemp’s Quay.
thearthousesouthampton.org/bitterne-station-hub
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